Grange Restaurant, Adelaide
A visit to the Grange Restaurant it is often accompanied with high expectations. After all, Cheong Liew – consultant chef to Grange – and the restaurant itself has received many awards, medals and recognition including an OAM (Medal for the Order of Australia) for service to the food and restaurant industry. Dining on Saturday night - often the most unpredictable night of the week – sounded like a recipe to be disappointed, even if only a little.
On Saturday nights the menu is fixed with two choices: a six or eight course degustation (subject to dietary and allergy requirements). During the week it is more flexible. The difference between the two menus was two courses: an abalone, yabby & drunken chicken jelly, and the Tallegio cheese with pear & walnut salad. The only choice to make was the full eight courses (with matched wines).
The degustation is constructed expertly flowing from one texture and flavour to the next.
Starting on the journey was the first course: “Kingfish bon-bon, orange and saffron pasta with marinated mussel, and a jellyfish with apple salad� was a great way to start. Paired with the 2003 Cullen Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, a very French style, and even-handed wine.
Both the first course and wine arrived in unison and were professionally explained in further detail by the floor staff. Going from left-to-right, the kingfish bon-bon concealed a delicious Chinese date. “Cooked� only in a blood-orange marinade, the fresh sashimi-texture was invigorating. Next, the saffron pasta provided a piquant sweetness with depth of flavour coming from the prawn sambal. Finally, the jellyfish with apple salad provided a fresh burst of wasabi with a crunchy texture (more from the jellyfish than the apple).
Next up, the “abalone, yabbies and drunken chicken jelly salad with tomato chilli dressing�. The jelly is remarkably understated in flavour but very exciting to eat. Each mouthful presents a different combination of both flavour and texture (spiced lightly from the dressing and with a hint of sweetness from pineapple). The match with the very creamy, ginger and apricot tasting 2002 Yalumba ‘The Virgillus’ Viognier was perfect.
From the jelly it was onto the comparatively rich and well-seasoned “Bouillabaisse custard in saffron fish consommé with fried pacific oyster�. Then came the “Wild mushroom and lobster butter risotto with marron tail� cooked perhaps more crunchy than al dente. This was the last of the seafood and chicken “white� courses.
The “red� courses started with a “Spiced rib of lamb in a candlenut sauce with special basmati rice�. Cooked medium-rare with a fine layer of fat ensured the meat was tender and juicy. It was matched with a 1999 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was a little young but showed good fruit of blackberry and plum.
The “Braised Wagyu beef cheek, confit of tongue, garlic mash and baby root vegetables� (pictured above) was the highlight of the savoury courses. Both flavour and texture were expertly combined. It was partnered with the delicious 2002 Kilikanoon ‘Oracle’ Shiraz – Northern Rhone in style with Australian fruit.
Next was the cheese course - the “Grilled Taleggio with pear and walnut salad�. On the underside of the cheese was a thin layer of black truffle paste. A 2004 Cape Jaffa ‘jaffa juice’ Botrytis Semillon provided refreshment from the intense flavours. I doubt I will ever taste Tallegio served better than this!
Finally, to finish was a “Palm sugar and black rice pudding� dessert. Accompanied with coconut ice cream and roasted pineapple, the flavours and texture were ‘Chinese Straits meets Malay’. It was well matched with a glass of Sanchez Romate ‘Ambrosia’ Moscatel (the only non-Australian wine served).
The performance the cooking and service was flawless through the night. This was highlighted further when on inquiring with the sommelier (‘wine wanker’ to use Max Allen’s words) that Cheong Liew was not even in the kitchen tonight!
Don’t let the Grange Restaurant being located in a hotel put you off. It is admittedly just off the main foyer but good efforts have been made to make it feel self contained.
This visit to Grange was one of the all too rare great and memorable fine dining experiences. If you are coming to Adelaide make sure it’s on your itinerary and if you’re a local you have no excuse - make sure you return soon. Just make sure you organise a taxi or have accommodation organised nearby.
Restaurant Review Summary
The Bill: Eight tasting-size courses $149, matched wines $89 per person.
Awarded Three Roo’s (top marks) for culinary innovation, careful cooking and knowledgeable service.
Contact and Restaurant Details
Grange Restaurant (at Hilton Adelaide)
233 Victoria Square, Adelaide
P: (08) 8217 2000
Open: 6:30 -10, Wednesday through Saturday
Bookings required.