Jacques Reymond Restaurant, Prahran (Melbourne)
Jacques Reymond Restaurant is unassumingly chic, refined and elegant. The main dining room is softly lit (while providing enough light to read the menu), comfortable and the tables organised to provide a sense of privacy and good outlook. On being shown to the table, Jacques was present at the entrance to the main dining area to greet the diners. This should be a good night – let the feast begin!
The approach of dining here is flexible: seven course degustation in omnivore ($120), or vegetarian ($85) options, or alternatively several entrée sized courses a la carte (two $70, three $94, four $118). Having enjoyed the vegetarian degustation previously (vegetables have never tasted so good!) decided this time, to go a la carte.
A comprehensive wine list compliments the food well. Australian and French wines are well represented and carefully selected. Many quality half bottles are available for flexibility with matching the food. From the wine list a 1996 Jean Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet was selected. On tasting it was disappointingly oxidised. A replacement was organised professionally and smoothly – but at a restaurant of this calibre shouldn’t it be pre-screened by the sommelier?
The menu featured seasonal produce of mushrooms, pear, plum and chestnut. The food would be best described as Modern Australian (with significant Asian influence) tempered with French sensibility. Perhaps it could be called Frenchalian cuisine?
The dishes all sounded delicious – but between the two of us settled on eight courses: an assiette of Autumn mushrooms; King George whiting with paradise prawns; lacquered salmon with poached leatherjacket; roasted golden band snapper; seared highland venison tataki; guinea fowl braised in master stock; calf’s liver with scampi, foie gras; and finally Pekin duck breast with five spiced squid.
Each course was impeccably timed, presented and cooked. This kitchen has great quality control, not even a leaf was out of place! Each of the courses offered balance, refinement and honesty of flavour centred on the produce.
One of the highlights of the night was the roasted golden band snapper served with goats cheese and lemon ravioli. The snapper was cooked to perfection - moist with good, firm texture. It included little surprises such as a pastry filled with anchovy. Despite the strong flavours of anchovy and goats cheese, at no time did it overshadow the fish or become unfocussed.
Guinea fowl braised in master stock is also worth a special mention. It has such rich, sweet meat that falls off the bone and the stocks flavour was seemingly endless. Notes made while eating it read “out of this world, 15/10� but perhaps it was the effect of the Burgundian style 1999 Bass Philip ‘Jacques Reymond’ Pinot Noir (SE Gippsland) talking?
The best course of the night however was the seared calf’s liver, scampi and foie gras. If the thought of liver doesn’t send you running in the other direction this is something you must try. This is the number one offal course I have had the pleasure of eating anywhere - masterful!
As the menu changes so often, if you want to try these it would be best to get in quick.
Service is professional, seamless and unobtrusive – except perhaps for the regular offering of (very good) bread. With four courses to go through and possibly dessert – unless you are a glutton for punishment it is important to say no after the second or third piece.
Complimentary petit fors ended the night on a pleasant sweet note.
Jacques Reymond Restaurant shows a high degree of refinement and elegance in every aspect. Despite the high admittance price, it offers one of the best value dining experiences in Australia.
Restaurant Review Summary
Atmosphere: Fine.
The Bill: Degustation: $85-$120, Two courses: $70, Three Courses: $94, Four Courses: $118. Great value lunch specials available ($38 for two courses, $46 for three).
Awarded: Three Roos - The best! Consistent, refined, accomplished, passionate.
Contact and Restaurant Details
Jacques Reymond Restaurant
78 Williams Road
Prahran, Melbourne, Victoria
P: (03) 9525-2178
Open: Dinner Tue-Sat, Lunch Thu-Fri
Bookings required.