The Sauce Restaurant, Dulwich
The Sauce is a warm, welcoming and casual restaurant serving ‘modern Australian’ food. It is tucked into a vine-clad group of shops in leafy inner-suburban Dulwich (10 minutes east of the city). Several of the tables are hand-painted with vegetables and spices, while others are covered in linen.
On a warm autumn’s evening, we sat outside under the covered (and heated during cooler nights) verandah. The outdoor area had three tables set with good spacing between them.
The menu is gently innovative and offers a large range of locally sourced produce. International influences come from Asia, Middle East, Mediterranean and France. There’s something on the menu that would please anyone – with advance notice vegan, gluten and other dietary requirements are catered for. A carefully selected wine list balances both Australian and imported wines.
Sitting outside, separate from the main dining area, it is easy to be forgotten by waiting staff. Thankfully, this did not happen at The Sauce! Service was casual, relaxed and very attentive. A little more knowledge of the wine list and menu items (and their pronunciation) would improve service and sales.
A half bottle of Billecart-Salmon Rosé (expertly opened with a gentle sigh) and a starter of generously sized duck liver paté ($9.50) started the night on the right note. It was garnished with very fresh rocket leaves that were too good just to leave as a garnish.
An entrée of pan-fried sardines served on Middle Eastern cous cous salad with preserved lemon aioli ($13.50) was delicious. It was the first time experiencing Middle Eastern cous cous (also know as Israeli or Maftoul) – it’s about peppercorn sized and much creamier than the ‘normal’ Moroccan cous cous.
The tempura zucchini flowers filled with salmon and bug mousse and served with pickled daikon and mizuna salad ($15.90) were selected as the other entrée. They were served piping hot, thinly battered and slightly crunchy. There was a slight ‘fishiness’ to the taste of the flowers – perhaps fried in the same oil as fish? The stalks of the flower were tender and juicy. An extra grind of pepper brought out even more flavour.
Sitting outside in the peace and quiet that was broken only by the odd passing bus, car and bicycle, we noticed the ‘jolly’ noise of diners enjoying themselves from inside. This is a place to relax and have fun.
With the main courses, we selected a bottle of the fine 2001 Hubert Lamby ‘Le Paradis’ St-Auburn. It matched well with both the red roasted duck with Chinese pancakes ($27.50) and the eye fillet of beef with new potatoes, olive tapenade and truffled buerre a la Maitre d’Hotel ($34.50).
The duck was an enjoyable dish, recommend to be eaten mostly with the fingers. Assembling your own pancakes is messy but fun and rewarding. The cucumber and spring onion combined with the duck and ponzu sauce was lip smacking. If only there were a few more pancakes (which were delivered when requested).
Cooked rare - perfectly to order - the tender beef eye fillet melted in the mouth. Maitre d’Hotel butter (parsley, lemon juice and salt flavoured butter) is usually served on fish or steamed vegetables. With the addition of the truffle oil, it however became a wonderful match with the beef and crushed potatoes. The olive tapenade on top of the beef provided an acidity and saltiness to cut through the otherwise rich taste. If all beef were like this, it’d be worth eating more often.
Sitting outside we spotted a plaque engraved with ‘Mike Bentley Room’. Enquiring with the proprietor Andrew Bruce, he told the story of how the outdoor ‘room’ got its name.
Mike lived a few doors away from The Sauce and was the fire chief who answered directly to the Premier. He either dined at The Sauce every Wednesday on the painted chilli table inside or preferentially in the outdoors area rain, hail or shine. Mike passed away on a walk with some other firies about three years ago and the outdoor ‘room’ has been named in his honour since.
After the generous servings of food through the night, we weren’t sure how dessert was going to fit in. Not wanting to end the night so soon we decided to indulge in the cheese plate: Touree de L’aubier (a wonderful, slightly sweet, creamy French, cheese from Normandy) and a blue Laquille. Both matched well with the remaining wine.
This is an ideal ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ – great for either a simple dinner when you’re feeling lazy or a place to do some serious eating with good friends. Now, is there a good reason I can find to move house somewhere close by?
Restaurant Review Summary
The Bill: Entree $13-16, Mains: $22-35.
Awarded: One Roo for fresh local produce and careful cooking - recommended.
Contact and Restaurant Details
The Sauce
64 Dulwich Avenue, Dulwich
P: (08) 8364 2310
Open: Lunch and Dinner Monday-Saturday
Bookings recommended.