Salopian Inn, McLaren Vale
The Fleurieu peninsula is blessed with a bounty of wine, produce and restaurants. The Salopian Inn has been in the business (with assorted owners) for a long time but continues to deliver a consistent, innovative and enjoyable experience. Now, passed onto Pip’s brother Michael Ewers, I can say it remains in very good hands.
On two separate visits, the menu items were completely enjoyable. Food was generally cooked a few degrees of perfection with great flavours. If you’re in the mood to be difficult, ordering several entrées instead of the traditional entrée / main can be more satisfying. The dishes seem particularly well suited to sharing.
The menu remains seasonally focussed and offers distinctly different food than other restaurants. Where else would you find well-handled veal sweetbreads, tongue, wasabi and mustard salad dressing, and chervil salads? It sounds like “fusion� food that would send a shudder down any self respecting foodie’s spine – but Salopian just offers genuinely good, South Australian fare. If this offal and fusion talk gives you second doubts, have no fear. There is plenty on offer that everyone - including vegetarians – would enjoy (vegans without prior arrangement may be another matter).
There is no traditional wine list, so you’ll have to do you’re hunting and gathering in the cellar below. It can be fun, but some of the prices are a little far out. Considering it’s location in a wine region, it would be good to see wine (especially local) at more realistic prices. After a busy period, pickings can be thin. Despite the pricing of some of the wine, it is generally well selected and matches the cuisine stylistically well.
Service is informal but attentive and mostly professional – especially if you ask for what you want. It was disappointing on one occasion; to have a screw capped wine not offered for tasting. Bottles can experience problems (heat, brett, excessive SO2) unrelated to closure (even assuming screw cap is perfect).
Sometimes the menu can be overzealous in its description - back in May it offered tempura zucchini flowers. Calling it tempura was a stretch of the imagination; it was thickly coated in beer batter. Irrespective of how it was described, it was truly delicious and perfectly tasty. It was tender, well seasoned and was accompanied by piquant olive mash and tomato ‘salad’. A great success and immaculately balanced.
Depending on what’s on offer, desserts generally are less of a highlight than the savoury courses. Definitely, indulge in dessert if something takes your fancy – but I’d prefer to fit another entrée or side salad in. Perhaps however I’m a glutton?
The current winter menu reflects what’s best at the moment (venison, ocean trout, mushroom, pear, pheasant, pumpkin). You’ll be hard to pressed many non-seasonal ingredients. As delicious as lamb can be from a good supplier at any time of the years (Limestone Coast, Hay Valley…), it’s best in season.
Thankfully, the handover of the Salopian Inn to Michael Ewers has been a success. Chef David Swain and his crew even appeared to have pulled their socks up compared to the last couple of years. The Salopian’s food is at the best it has been for years – go and enjoy!
Summary
Atmosphere: Old country guest house meets home. Perfect in winter, a little gloomy in summer – but then there is always outside. Casual but professional.
The Bill: Entrees about $16-19, Mains $27-32.
Awarded: One Roo for an innovative menu, seasonal produce and careful cooking - recommended.
Contact and Restaurant Details
Salopian Inn
Corner Willunga Road and McMutrie Road
McLaren Vale
SA 5171
P: (08) 8323 8769
www.salopianinn.com.au
Open: Dinner – Friday and Saturday nights, Lunch every day except Wednesday (and Tuesday in cooler months)