Formerly known as ‘Enoteca Cucina’, ‘Enoteca’ as it is known now, seems to be finding it’s feet. Being late Winter it’s still occasionally wet outside and on entering the restaurant today, the tiled entryway offered no doormat. A minor niggle perhaps, but not for one with slippery leather soled shoes nor one who wishes to traipse mud all over the restaurant floor.

Inside, the space has again undergone refurbishment. It looks good but the unbalanced cutlery remains (you know the ones!) and a strong solvent smell still hangs in the air.

A glass of sparkling wine would be ideal to start, but puzzlingly not a single Champagne or Italian sparking were available by the glass. I wasn’t in the mood for anything on their selection, so skipped that and went with still water. Good bread soon arrived with generous quantities of olive oil and over-salted dukkah.

The menu looked good with plenty of veal, quail, rabbit and zucchini flower - everything you’d expect. I would say it sounded delicious if not for the background music I found intrusive and more appropriate to a ‘chill-out’ room in a nightclub.

An entree of stuffed, fried zucchini flower was uninspiring and soggy (Fiori Di Zucchini). Another entree of veal rolled in prosciutto and cheese with char grilled asparagus (Involtini Di Vitello) was better but not of particular note (except perhaps its sweetness). Both dishes held up surprisingly well with the 2000 Moss Wood Pinot Noir selected from the (eclectic and brief) wine list. The Moss Wood Pinot Noir is an unusual wine, it is slightly simple with it’s boiled lolly aroma and short finish. Overall however, the wine saved the entrees and refreshed the palate.

Mains were next, veal with lemon and capers (Vitello Al Limone) was cooked competently but the sauce tasted of undercooked flour. Thankfully, the green beans, rocket and parmesan around the veal were very good. Spatchcock stuffed with veal and cheese with polenta and brocollini (Galetto Ripieno) was very good but was disappointing in that it used the same sauce base as the veal entree.

Service was friendly but a little unobservant. Orders were attempted to be taken (twice) while menus were still being perused. Finished food also lingered on the table a little too long. Both water and wine was however topped up promptly and effectively.

Perhaps it was an off day in the kitchen or I was having a ‘root’ day (search Google about biodynamics and root days). Hopefully it will settle in soon and lift its game.

I hope to get to Assagio soon to see how Enoteca ex-chef Camillo Crugnale is getting on.

Ambience: Modern, chic. Quiet at lunch, but expect it to get a little noisy at dinner.
Price: Food is moderate - Entrees around $15.50, Mains $23-$30 but require a side at $7.50 extra
Wine list: Eclectic and short with some major holes (Champagne by the glass). Mineral water $8.50 per Litre.

Enoteca
262 Carrington St,
Adelaide 5000
P: 08 8227 0766
www.enotecacucina.com.au

A dinner at Penfold’s Magill Estate.

Food at Magill Estate is outstanding at present (thanks to chef Jerome Tremoulet and kitchen). A customised degustation menu was the best food I’ve had recently – it is especially seasonal and doesn’t hide behind sauces and spice. All dishes were close to perfect with just a single fault with over seasoning on one dish. Service was flawless and certainly worth the price of admission. Sommelier Carlos Alvarez is knowledgeable, enthusiastic and friendly - all wines were checked (as they should be) and outstanding examples served at ideal temperature.

While waiting for other guests a glass of:-

Lanson ‘Black Label’ NV, Champagne Fr
-> was snuck in. As an appertif style this is great. High acidity gets the juices flowing. Great mousse. More than a glass would tire - if you’re looking for contemplation look else where. Very good.

Then came coffin bay oysters (freshly shucked) served three ways: crayfish salsa, spring onion dressing & eschalot vinegar. Great oysters that truly smelt of the sea enhanced by the dressings, not masked by it. Easily the best coffin bay oysters I’ve had. Enjoyed with:-

Lanson Rosé, Champagne Fr
-> Initially a little stinky, almost fishy. With a little air time (and slight rise in temperature) it opened to reveale pure red fruits (particularly strawberries). A courser mousse than the ‘Black Label’ but it was overall more enjoyable and complex. A food friendly wine and especially a treat with the superb oysters. Very good+.

Next up were Kangaroo Island yabby tails with crayfish timbale, served with tarragon pesto. Presentation of this dish was excellent, the taste and texture were even better. The slightly sweet, earthy flavour of the tails enhanced by all that’s below (and a little richness from cream?). It really had pure, delicate and unmasked flavours. This was enjoyed with the very surprising:-

2000 Penfold’s Yattarna, Blend
-> I have never been a believer in Yattarna - but this has changed my mind. Served at just a touch below cellar temperature this offered a fragrant nose of white fruits. Not at all ‘blousy’ this was lean and focussed like a good Puligny-Montrachet. Great balance (and wonderful with the yabby tails). Excellent.

The Yattarna also carried through the seared SA yellowfin tuna with tempura anchovy, chickpea flour sticks and saffron aioli. The tuna was expertly cooked - just seared it melted on the tongue. This and the last course presented lots of satisfied murmerings around the table.

Raviolo of Barossa Valley Quail with leek fondue and herb jus then appeared after a well-timed short break. Beutifully moist quail wrapped in al dente raviolo with the most tantalising aroma. It would have been improved had the raviolo retained a little more moisture, but judging by others enjoyment I was in the minority. This was a great way to gently shift into the meatier courses. This was paired with:-

1985 Penfold’s St Henri ‘Claret’ (sic), Blend
-> This was an immaculate example - it really seemed quite youthful. A spicy, perfumed nose with plum and hints of coffee. Exceptionally fine, smooth tannins. Harmonius and integrated, enhanting. Very good+.

The next dish left little impression with me, but that probably comes down to my generous consumption. The course was Hay Valley lamb with bok choy. A quick discussion with other reassured me it was good. I’ll have to believe them! The last of the red wines was:-

1991 Penfold’s Magill Estate, Magill SA
-> A favourite of mine drinking at it’s peak. A single vineyard wine from the vines at your feet. Blackberry, plum flavours and a little licorice spice. Rich, mellow and smooth. Particularly savoury and with great length and mouth feel. Excellent.

This wine was also served with the next course of braised beef cheek with celeriac mash. Unfortunately this course was significantly over seasoned. However, the concept and texture combination with the puff pastry promised a lot. A minor blemish on the night’s otherwise perfect proceedings.

Finally, we were onto the cheese! Magill Estate’s cheese trolley is a real delight, but this time we eschewed it’s stinky, gooey pleasures for a Barossa Valley Baby ‘(Camem)Bert with fondant potato and walnut & red wine dressing. This course soon erased the previous courses disappointment. Refreshing acidity balanced with the creamy, richness of the Barossa Valley Baby Bert. This was even enjoyed by one heathen at our table who claimed they “didn’t doâ€? camembert. This matched surprisingly well with the:-

1997 Coutet, Barsac Fr
-> Citrus, floral, frangipani nose. In the mouth it was surprisingly restrained and elegant, rich and yet not overly sweet. This really grew on me with a little air and as it warmed in the glass. Definitely not a wine to have with sweet desserts. Thankfully, both the cheese and soufflé to follow were perfectly matched. Very good+.

A creamed chestnut soufflé with rosemary anglaise rounded off the meal nicely. I feel sorry for whoever peeled those chestnuts - a job I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. The pain of preparing the chestnuts was however worth it. Gently sweet, fluffy and all one could want.

Magill Estate Restaurant is really on track. An essential stop next time you’re in Adelaide.

Reservations required on (08) 8301 5551. I’d suggest checking out their wine list and current menu http://www.penfolds.com.au/experience/dining/magill.asp , and requesting any older wines to be prepared for your arrival for best enjoyment.