Formerly known as ‘Enoteca Cucina’, ‘Enoteca’ as it is known now, seems to be finding it’s feet. Being late Winter it’s still occasionally wet outside and on entering the restaurant today, the tiled entryway offered no doormat. A minor niggle perhaps, but not for one with slippery leather soled shoes nor one who wishes to traipse mud all over the restaurant floor.
Inside, the space has again undergone refurbishment. It looks good but the unbalanced cutlery remains (you know the ones!) and a strong solvent smell still hangs in the air.
A glass of sparkling wine would be ideal to start, but puzzlingly not a single Champagne or Italian sparking were available by the glass. I wasn’t in the mood for anything on their selection, so skipped that and went with still water. Good bread soon arrived with generous quantities of olive oil and over-salted dukkah.
The menu looked good with plenty of veal, quail, rabbit and zucchini flower - everything you’d expect. I would say it sounded delicious if not for the background music I found intrusive and more appropriate to a ‘chill-out’ room in a nightclub.
An entree of stuffed, fried zucchini flower was uninspiring and soggy (Fiori Di Zucchini). Another entree of veal rolled in prosciutto and cheese with char grilled asparagus (Involtini Di Vitello) was better but not of particular note (except perhaps its sweetness). Both dishes held up surprisingly well with the 2000 Moss Wood Pinot Noir selected from the (eclectic and brief) wine list. The Moss Wood Pinot Noir is an unusual wine, it is slightly simple with it’s boiled lolly aroma and short finish. Overall however, the wine saved the entrees and refreshed the palate.
Mains were next, veal with lemon and capers (Vitello Al Limone) was cooked competently but the sauce tasted of undercooked flour. Thankfully, the green beans, rocket and parmesan around the veal were very good. Spatchcock stuffed with veal and cheese with polenta and brocollini (Galetto Ripieno) was very good but was disappointing in that it used the same sauce base as the veal entree.
Service was friendly but a little unobservant. Orders were attempted to be taken (twice) while menus were still being perused. Finished food also lingered on the table a little too long. Both water and wine was however topped up promptly and effectively.
Perhaps it was an off day in the kitchen or I was having a ‘root’ day (search Google about biodynamics and root days). Hopefully it will settle in soon and lift its game.
I hope to get to Assagio soon to see how Enoteca ex-chef Camillo Crugnale is getting on.
Ambience: Modern, chic. Quiet at lunch, but expect it to get a little noisy at dinner.
Price: Food is moderate - Entrees around $15.50, Mains $23-$30 but require a side at $7.50 extra
Wine list: Eclectic and short with some major holes (Champagne by the glass). Mineral water $8.50 per Litre.
Enoteca
262 Carrington St,
Adelaide 5000
P: 08 8227 0766
www.enotecacucina.com.au